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Rust Encapsulator

 

Product Description

RE Rust Encapsulator Primer is your closest modern equivalent to Old Red Lead with some distinct advantages over even our other Primer RCP (rust control primer).

Rust Encapsulator has almost no sinkback even for a 1K single component product, so is also superb for applying to rougher chassis to not only protect them but improve their appearance. Add in RE's ability to fully stabilise existing corrosion, it doesnt have to be top coated, its higher adhesion that RCP, with a very fast cure time, and is highly compatible with 1K and 2K coatings, and we have a tolerant, easy to use versatile product.

RE has improved wetting out abilities when compared to our other fast cure products like CIO, so is the perfect upgrade as a base primer for heavier corrosion. Moving on from that article the higher the solids content of a product, the harder it is for it to wet out and follow the profile of the item you are painting correctly (2k armour suffers here, and needs a good key, which is where RE becomes so versatile that it can be applied to smoother or rougher metals/ corrosion and still work), however, too high a solvent content and you will not get enough physical product left on piece you are trying to protect.

RE will wet out incredibly well using the correct balance of solids vs solvent, prior to setting to its DFT (dry film thickness). RE will consistently out perform even CIO Chassis In One (because it is an All In One type product), and 2K Armour (because of its solids content) on Heavier corrosion.  Above and beyond most coatings RE contains a pigment that takes rust in its reactive form, and over a period of around 9 months stabilises it to Magnetite an incredibly low reactive form.

 

To summarise RE wets out extremely well, leaves a high build film behind protecting the peaks of the substrate, takes long enough to cure to be effective in searching out moisture and air, whilst being fast to cure, and having high adhesion, all the while stabilising what is already there without having to burn or remove it. The coating once cured is very tough, doesn't suffer from Sub surface corrosion which can spread and lead to Rust creep, does not require top coating, and remains semi flexible.

RE's real strength is that we combined three products into one. RCP we took the corrosion stabilisation, Fluid etch we took the adhesion, and FCP we took the cure process from to create a product that works almost anywhere with almost anything.

 

Available in :-

Aerosols, Paint tins and Schutz ready to spray tins

Good for

  • Direct to firmly adherent rust
  • primer for 2K 2 pack, 1K based products
  • Compatible with many synthetic products
  • Long term protection of corroded, or clean steel

Suitable for

  • Harsh environments such as under vehicles, marine, or coastal environments
  • suspension components
  • Use as a two coat solution with no need to top coat (note. colour is dark buff)
  • patch repair work on vehicles such as spot corrosion repair
  • Fast Repair

Poor for

  • Top coating shiny paint (scotch/ sand / key it)

Preparation

  1. Remove all Loose paint, wax, and underseal using a paint remover.
  2. Provide a key for maximum adhesion (use an abrasive to achieve this)
  3. If any grease, or contamination is present remove with a suitable product such as FXdegreaser.
  4. Clean down the surface using clean water and a Scotchbrite type scourer before drying.
  5. There is no requirement to remove all rust. You are looking ideally for a clean, dull surface, providing the coating something to adhere to.
  6. If applying to medium to heavier corrosion manual application by wetting out brush should be used. Apply the coating in a vigorous manner, working the coating in to the substrate. Air bubbles are likely to raise to the surface as the product is agitated and continues to wet out.On a hot day a drop of thinner <5% can assist wetting out further.
  7. Best prep is direct to the base metal, but can overcoat most other coatings. Test patches if unsure.

 

Application

STRIPE COAT

For best protection and penetration, regardless of application ,method we recommend a stripe coat. Do this first, and then follow up with Aerosol, Tinned, Brushed, Rollered, Sprayed methods below.

AEROSOL
  1. Shake the can for two full minutes with the agitating ball active.
  2. Apply in cross coats at 90 degree angles allowing the coating to cure between coats.
  3. Coating will take 5>25 minutes to tack off, and around 12 hours to fully harden. can be over coated with most coatings once touch dry.
  4. following application if the entire aerosol is not used invert the can fully and depress the nozzle for 3 seconds to clear the actuator so it can be used again later. Consider an aerosol unblocker kit.
  5. Be sure to apply enough product. "Blacking" is the process of applying enough product to cover an item with the colour of the paint, but not enough to protect it. Failure typically occurs within 6 months, and will result in spot rust and sub surface corrosion occurring. You are aiming for Sufficient DFT (Dry Film Thickness) to cover the piece properly.
  6. ALWAYS a minimum of two coats. Heavy corrosion up to 5 coats with the aerosol. If unsure contact us.

TINNED

  1. Stir and agitate the product thoroughly prior to use using an agitator.
  2. The product can be brushed, rollered or sprayed.

Brushed

  • Using a seam sealing, or turkshead brush, work the first coat in to the substrate/ metal you are looking to protect. This has the added benefit of greatly increasing the ability of the product to wet out benefiting the application in several ways.
  • After you have applied your first coat, allow it to cure for 30>60 minutes typically. 
  • Apply your second coat using a large softer brush so as not to damage the first coat. The coating will tend to self-level and leave you a good finish.
  • Coating will take a day depending on conditions to fully harden. much less in warm well ventilated areas
  • 2 coats medium corrosion. 3 for heavier corrosion.

Rollered

  • We recommend you use a narrow roller for application. This gives you a higher pressure of application for the roller, assisting wetting out properties, and gives you better access and control.
  • Apply the first coat using reasonable force and a slow pass with the roller. Repeat the rollering process in the same area several times if existing corrosion is present to assist wetting out and adhesion later on. Do not spread the product out so far that you reduce the amount of coating, and thus reduce the protection available.
  • Allow coating to cure semi-hard for a while depending on conditions, prior to adding a second or third coat.
  • Ensure coating is hard dry prior to use.
  • 2 coats medium corrosion. 3 for heavier corrosion.

Schutz Sprayed

 

  1. Follow the prep guide
  2. Follow the stripe coating guide (you can use a brush from the schutz tins, or any RE tin)
  3. 75 psi at the gun, adjust the nozzle to spray. Ideally do not thin. This just reduces coverage and atomisation. Only ever intentionally thin for certain scenarios and where you have an excess of product.
  4. Lay up the first coat, covering as many angles as possible, try not to "lash" it on thick where you are hitting one area from multiple angles. In this instance, apply the coating at multiple angels lightly, and build up full coverage allowing to tack between coats.
  5. Wait to become touch dry so it does not mark with a fingerprint (usually 3>5 hours)
  6. Lay up second heavier coat. You want a full sealing coat, not a coating of pimples that do not join up.

Sprayed

  • RE Can be sprayed by various means.
  • Buzzweld underbody gun. Extend the nozzle on the gun fully and set the pressure to a minimum of 90 psi. pressure can be elevated up to 150psi, the product warmed, or thinned to affect coverage, film thickness, and conditions of use. RE will spray with no thinner in this gun if required. Product will self level to a degree once applied.
  • 2.5MM HVLP Spray gun. Thin RE using RE Thinners up to 15%. Using a 400 Micron strainer load the gun with product, and set the pressure between 60- and 70 psi. Thin the MINIMUM so you can use less coats and save time.
  • Spray as per normal spraying instructions, building up the product. We would suggest you allow the product to cure for a few hours, and then apply a minimum of three coats.
  • 3 coats medium corrosion. 4 for heavier corrosion. (2 can be used if not thinning too much, and corrosion isn't too heavy. you will need to use heavier coats, and adjust your cure and overcoating times accordingly).

 

Compatibility

RE is exceptionally compatible with other coatings. Sensible guidelines to reduce the risk of product reactions are as follows.

  1. Ensure that any existing product to be top coated with RE is FULLY cured prior to top coating. There is a big difference between hard and fully cured. For example 2 pack acrylics can be hard same day, but take up to two weeks to fully harden so that they can be machine polished.
  2. If a reaction has occurred, or is suspected, such as insufficient cure time available, then use a light first coat, with minimal thinner if spraying. If using an aerosol, then spray from a greater distance, and do not not flood, or build the product too fast. effectively "dust" the first coat. Subsequent coats can be applied with increasing build, and reduced risk of reaction
  3. If a coating reacts even after sufficient cure time, contact us for advise, or use a Barcoat Isolator as an intermediary coating.

 

 

Notable attributes

  • Stabilises corrosion using stabilised rust to  add further protection to the base metal.
  • Tough, hard coating, with good resistance to abrasion, and a high build
  • Superb wetting out properties reinforced with extreme resistance to porosity.
  • Ideal as a primer for any of our top coats and all in ones.

DO.

  • Always a minimum of two coats
  • Always allow the first coat a suitable cure period prior to second or third coat.
  • apply to dry, clean, non contaminated surface
  • Key the surface to a dull finish- never shiny.

DO NOT

  • Use fossil fuel heaters in or around coatings when applying or curing. They are not only a fire hazard, but they introduce massive amounts of moisture to the air.
  • Use Cellulose thinners of any kind as prep, or a thinning agent.
  • Use thinners to thin the product that are not RE specific thinners. RE is a specific hybrid coating, and using the incorrect thinners can cause premature failure, delamination, and porosity.
  • Apply to a wet substrate without specific advice from ourselves first.
  • Top coat existing coatings that are not fully cured. Reactions can occur top coating existing "top coats"- test areas first.
  • "Clean" the surface with thinners

COVERAGE

Aerosol

  • 1 can per wheel arch
  • 10 cans for a small chassis 
  • 10 cans for a large chassis (if using a primer)
  • 18 cans for a large chassis no primer

Tinned

  • 10m2/1000ML
  • 2500ML for a chassis and axles up to 110 size (we tend to use 4>5 Liters)
  • 10m2/1000ML if top coating a primer with a smooth substrate
  • 7m2/1000ML if top coating a rough substrate with no primer
  • 500ML per average wheel arch (using two coats)

CURETIMES  (Typical)

Please be aware cure times can vary wildly. Air movement, film thickness, relative humidity, air flow and temperature all play a large part in the actual cure time of a product. Additionally temperatures below 10C can see the cure times extend exponentially if all conditions above contribute in a negative way.

Aerosol

  • 10C Touch Dry 20 minutes, Hard dry 2>4 hours, through dry 12>18 hours
  • 20C Touch Dry 10 minutes, Hard dry 30> 60 minutes through dry 6>12 hours

Tinned

  • 10C Touch Dry 45 minutes, Hard dry 3>4 hours, through dry 24>36 hours
  • 20C Touch Dry 30 minutes, Hard dry 1>2 hours, through dry 18>24 hours

Top Coating.

Rust Encapsulator must be touch dry prior to top coating with another product. No prep is needed to allow other coatings to adhere to RE in most cases.